The oldest stratum of Yushan National Park in central Taiwan is on the east side of the Central Mountain Range. It is also a section of Taiwan’s oldest stratum, and the metamorphic Tananao monolith is formed with rocks such as black schist, green schist, siliceous schist, and marble.
Constant collisions between the Philippine Sea Plate and the Eurasian Plate have made rocks in the Yushan area fragile and its geological structure contains numerous faults, joints, and folds. Moreover, metamorphism had led to particularly obvious rock cleavage and foliation, significantly weakening the rocks’ resistance to weathering. Therefore, many spectacular landslides and cliff terrains, such as the Great Precipice, Mt. Xiangyang Collapsed Cliff, Jinmentong Cliff, and the Great Guanshan Cliff, were formed this way.
The altitude of Yushan offers a range of different climates in this area, creating vegetation zones that include tropical, subtropical, temperate, and alpine. The area has a complete forest ecosystem containing broadleaf forests at lower elevations and mixed broadleaf and coniferous forests and coniferous forests at high elevations. Therefore, the vegetation of Yushan National Park is representative of what Taiwan as a whole has to offer.
Yushan National Park is a typical mountainous national park in which there are numerous high mountains. In addition to Yushan peak, there are 30 mountains that are higher than 3,000 meters above sea level, including Mt. Xiuguluan, Mt. Mabolasi, Mt. Xinkang, and Mt. Guan.
Tectonic activities had elevated the Earth’s crust and created folds, forming numerous mountains and deep valleys in the Yushan region. The complex terrains have created tropical, subtropical, temperate, and alpine vegetation zones. The plant species vary with the change of elevation as well, and more than half of Taiwan’s native plants can be found here. Such environmental characteristics have also provided a good habitat for wildlife.
According to field research, there are at least 34 mammal species in Yushan National Park, accounting for 54.8 % of all mammal species in Taiwan. Eight of those mammal species are endemic to Taiwan, of which the Formosan rock monkey (Macaca cyclopis), Reeves’s muntjac (Muntiacus reevesi micrurus), and Formosan serow (Capricornis swinhoei) can often be seen in the park.
There are also 151 bird species, including 15 endemic species. such as the endangered Swinhoe’s pheasant (Lophura swinhoii) and Mikado Pheasant (Syrmaticus mikado).
Due to the high altitude of the area, there are only 17 reptile species, including 13 snake types and four kinds of lizards. The endemic species include the Taiwan mountain pit viper (Ovophis monticola makazayazaya), Sauter’s keelback (Amphiesma sauteri sauteri), and Swinhoe’s tree lizard (Japalura swinhonis).
With a total of 410 butterfly species, Taiwan is dubbed the “Kingdom of Butterflies” and 228 species (58%) among them live in the park. What’s more, 32 among the 50 butterfly species endemic to Taiwan, or 64%, can be found in Yushan National Park.
Rivers in the park are either the water source for other rivers or upper streams with cold and clear water not polluted by human activity, providing a good living environment for alpine freshwater fishesand at least two endemic species – the Taitung river loach (Hemimyzon taitungensis) and Taiwan ku fish (Onychostoma alticorpus). There are also 12 amphibian species and 10 of them are batrachians, including the Taiwan groove-toed frog (Rana sauteri), Moltrecht’s tree frog (Rhacophorus moltrechti), and robust Buerger’s frog (Buergeria robusta), which are endemic to Taiwan.
Two caudate species, the Taiwan salamander (Hynobius formosanus) and Sonan’s salamander (Hynobius sonani), are endemic to Taiwan and live in humid forests at least 2,000 meters above sea level. They are very precious caudate species that are only found in Taiwan and belong to the same order as the Chinese giant salamander (Andrias davidianus). These creatures have appeared on Earth since the Jurassic era over 1.45 million years ago, and are part of the evidence that Taiwan had indeed experienced the ice ages.
Preliminary surveys indicate that at present there are at least 17 gymnosperm species, 984 angiosperm species, 238 fern species, and 177 bryophyte species in Yushan National Park. The vertical elevation difference in the park ranging from 300 meters above sea level at the Lekuleku River to the 3,952-meter main peak of Yushan has resulted in complex forest vegetation zones. In addition to subtropical vegetation, northland plants can also be seen.
Vegetation zones from high to low altitude are outlined below:
Alpine tundra: The alpine tundra, which only exists in high latitude regions of Earth or between the alpine forest line and snow line, is the limit to where plants can survive.
The alpine tundra is distributed in areas at least 3,600 meters above sea level in Yushan National Park. The plants in the alpine tundra can be divided into two groups: the Yushan juniper (Juniperus Sqyanata Lamb.var. morrisonicola) and Yushan rhododendron (R. pseudochrysanthum) that grow in areas between the lower part of the alpine tundra and the forest line, and grasses or barren land near the ridge.
Sub-alpine coniferous forest: The sub-alpine coniferous forest is distributed in areas between the lower part of the alpine tundra and 3,000 meters above sea level, and the trees growing there are mostly evergreen. The soil in the area is better developed than that of the alpine tundra, but there are many loose stones because of steep slopes and erosion by strong winds and heavy rains. However, there are also sheltered valleys with gentle slopes that provide a -moist environment. The dry and moist environments have formed separate Yushan juniper and Taiwan fir (Abies kawakamii) forests.
In addition to head-high Yushan canes (Yushania) growing under Taiwan firs, there are also shrubs-like azaleas and alpine roses (Rosa transmorrisonensis Hayata) in the dry sub-alpine coniferous forests. Bryophytes spike mosses (Selaginella) cover the wet areas.
Cold temperate mountain coniferous forest: The cold temperate mountain coniferous forest is distributed in areas between 2,500 and 3,000 meters above sea level below the Taiwan fir forests. Precipitation is abundant in the area and it is wet throughout the year. Cold climate is the main factor affecting the growth of plants, and the dominant forests in the area are Taiwan hemlock (Tsuga chinensis) and Taiwan spruce (Picea morrisonicola) forests. Large stretches of Yushan cane and alpine silver grass (Miscanthus sinensis) are often seen in this part of the national park as well.
Due to the cold and low temperatures of the area, trees do not decay easily and fall over after a forest fire, often forming white wood forests. Since the underground stems of Yushan canes can avoid forest fires, they can sprout faster than other grasses to gradually occupy the whole burnt area and turn it into a prairie.
Warm temperate mountain coniferous forest: The warm temperate mountain coniferous forest is distributed in areas between the cold temperate coniferous forest and 1,200 meters above sea level. The area is where conifers meet broadleaf trees and enjoy the most precipitation in Taiwan. Because the atmospheric humidity is extremely high, it is also called a cloud forest. Valuable trees in Taiwan, including the Taiwan red cypress (Chamaecyparis formosensis Mats.), Taiwan cypress (Chamaecyparis taiwanensis Mas. et Suzuki), Taiwan cedar (Taiwania cryptomerioides), and Chinese yew (Taxus chinensis), all grow in this zone.
Warm temperate rainforest: The warm temperate rainforest is distributed in the park between 900 and 2,100 meters above sea level, comprising mostly trees from the Lauraceae and Fagaceae families. However, the originalplants are almost gone because of their distribution in low altitude areas and they are now replaced now by human-planted Taiwan fir, Makino bamboo (Phyllostachys makinoi), and moso bamboo (Phyllostachys edulis), as well as such pioneer plants as pecan (Carya illinoinensis), alder (Alnus glutinosa), and Trema species.
Tropical rainforest: The tropical rainforest is the plant community distributed at the lowest elevation and in areas 900 meters below the Lekuleku River valley on the east side of the national park. The climate is hot and humid in the area and the vegetation consists of mainly evergreen broadleaf trees and some deciduous trees. The forest is also covered by vines and epiphytic plants, including plants with buttress roots and cauliflorous capabilities.
Comparing Yushan National Park with the Pyrenees-Mont Perdu, the latter was listed in 1997as a World Heritage Site. It straddles the border between Spain and France, with the 3,352-meter Mont Perdu at the center of the Pyrenees mountain chain. In 1918 and 1967, Spain and France established their respective national parks in the area.
The Pyrenees area has lakes, waterfalls, exposed rocks, glaciers, and canyons. Due to altitude differences, the area has sub-Mediterranean, hemp, mountain, sub-alpine, and alpine vegetation, and is home to more than 800 mammal species.
The Pyrenees plays an important role between Spain and France— the two countries have developed similar cultural traditions and agricultural production in the Pyrenees region.
In comparison, there are higher mountains in Yushan National Park because of the crustal uplift following the collision between the Philippine Sea Plate and the Eurasian Plate. In addition to spectacular precipices, there are also lakes, waterfalls, valleys, exposed rocks, and cliffs. The different heights of the mountains in the park has given rise to tropical, subtropical, temperate, and alpine vegetation zones.
Since 70 percent of the park is covered by mountains more than 2,000 meters above sea level, the area is not easily accessible and has not been disturbed by human activity. Therefore, most of the original forests are well preserved. Both Yushan National Park and the Pyrenees-Mont Perdu have complex forest layouts and their terrains and landscapes bear many similarities.
In terms of important habitats for endangered species, Yushan National Park plays a far more crucial role than the Pyrenees-Mont Perdu. This is another important reason for Yushan National Park to be included on the World Heritage Site list.
The Batongguan Historical Trail is a well-preserved historical site in Yushan National Park that runs from Dongpu hot springs and Batongguan prairie to Yuli Township of Hualien. As the earliest historical trail to cross over the Central Mountain Range, it has been listed as a grade one historical site.
In 1874, Japan launched a punitive expedition to Taiwan in retaliation for the murder of Ryukyu fishermen by Paiwan aborigines. The Qing government sent Chinese official Shen Po-cheng to Taiwan to negotiate with the Japanese delegation. Shen soon found out that Japan desired Taiwan, and that British and French forces had also began to carve up Spratly islands after respectively occupying Vietnam, Singapore, and India.
Therefore, Shen strongly advocated developing mountainous areas to placate the Taiwanese aborigines. A large number of Qing soldiers were dispatched from Fujian and Guangdong provinces to build northern, central, and southern routes towards eastern Taiwan, establishing a transportation system between developed and underdeveloped areas in Taiwan for defensive purposes.
The 152-km central route was completed in about 10 months by troops under the command of General Wu Guang-liang, connecting Jhushan Township of Nantou County with Dongpu, Batongguan, and Yuli Township of Hualien County by crossing Mt. Xiuguluan. Wu carved on a stone tablet the four Chinese characters “Wan Nien Heng Chu (meaning “a thoroughfare for all ages”) at the foot of Mt. Fonghuang, hoping this route would remain open to traffic for tens of thousands of years to come. However, the trail was seldom used and was poorly maintained by the military, leading to gradual desertion of the Batongguan Historical Trail.
Aboriginal culture:
The Tsou and Bunun tribes are the indigenous people living in Yushan National Park and its surrounding areas. Because of their small population and forced relocation by the Japanese colonial authorities, and the fact that they lived among the Bunun tribesmen, the Tsou people have gradually been assimilated. Many aspects of the traditional Tsou culture, including basketry, netting, weaving, and bamboo ware crafting, are lost or fading away.
The Bunun tribesmen have historically lived scattered across Central Mountain Range valleys. The differences between Bunun culture and that of the other tribes have also become less pronounced because of the forced relocation and shared space with other tribes under the Japanese colonial policy of suppressing the aborigines.
Although the traditional Bunan social structure based on family ties remains intact today, its original social functions have been weakened after relocation and assimilation with other tribes. The original religious belief of the Bunun tribe was animism, but their annual festivals have since integrated several religious rites from Christianism and Catholicism, which were the major religious beliefs at the time, to develop a new worship system.